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Our car speeds up the Atlas Mountains, past sheep grazing in green fields, through small villages, over streams, navigating turn after serpentine turn. The drive scares Ellen but I’m enjoying the view. Our reckless/confident (depending on which one of us you ask) driver came recommended by the lovely staff at the Riad Malika, and the cost is $80 one way for the hour journey to Kasbah du Toubkal from Marrakech.

We stop at the village of Imlil.

Village from Kasbah du Toubkal

Mules (“Berber Mercedes” as the Kasbah du Toubkal website refers to them) haul our luggage from Imlil to the property, a ten-minute walk.

Kasbah du Toubkal Mule




Booking the Kasbah du Toubkal was easy: Ellen and I emailed with their office in the U.K., which never seemed to close, always responding immediately to our questions.

A group of young Berber men (the Kasbah du Toubkal employs only from the community) receives us. They are respectful, polite and friendly, such a welcome change from the borderline-harrassment we frequently received in Essaouira and Marrakech. The staff here has obviously mastered the art of genuine hospitality reminiscent of the wonderful treatment I received from the Bedouin in Jordan.

Ellen and I are escorted to the library, where we are presented with chilled diet cokes from a silver tray as we learn about the Kasbah du Toubkal and review our hiking options. These guys don’t overlook any detail — including a Hello! magazine to leaf-through while we wait so I can catch up who’s sleeping with whom in the U.K. (I need to know these things). There’s wi-fi service in the library as well.

Hello Magazine

The Kasbah du Toubkal offers accommodations in every price range, from a $40 cot to its sumptuous (that view!) garden suite, which can accommodate six people. Ellen and I opted for the deluxe suite for 250 Euro a night.

Kasbah du Toubkal Room

The room is average size, and not particularly luxurious, but we’re elated. It radiates coziness and charm. Someone very deliberately laid out our slippers and towels, turned on the bathroom lights, stocked our mini-fridge with American beverages (more Diet Coke), and filled bowls with dried fruit and nuts for us. We feel welcome here.

Our view from the deck is spectacular, a far cry from the Crate and Barrel store blocking the view from my front window back home in Chicago.

Kasbah du Toubkal Balcony

Lunch is served in an open tower overlooking the Atlas Mountains from 360 degrees. The tower, lined with benches and pillows, becomes our favorite place to hang out, read, and observe our fellow guests.

Kasbah du Toubkal from Above

The first afternoon we hike the Atlas Mountains by ourselves and get lost. We meet a kind, kind man selling beverages from a small wooden concession stand who closes up shop to escort us back to the resort.

Friendly Man

The second day we hire a hiking guide.

Atlas Mountains flowers

Dinner is served in tagines (clay pots) in the dining room, where we sit side-by-side with the other guests over candlelight. Riad Malikha doesn’t offer alcohol, but we’ve come prepared with our own wine, as have all the other boozy guests. Friends are made. Everyone moves to the library to polish off our bottles, then the pack migrates outside for a stargazing session. The atmosphere is so clear and pure in the Atlas Mountains that the path back to our room is naturally lit.

Kasbah du Toubkal Dining room

Of the hundreds of hotels I’ve stayed at in my life traveling extensively for work and pleasure, the Kasbah du Toubkal is definitely in my Top Five. Prior to our trip Ellen and I seriously considered staying at the sleeker and sexier Kasbah Tamadot, Sir Richard Branson’s Retreat down the road, and we probably would have if the price had been right. I’m sure it’s beautiful, and swanky, but I doubt it could match Kasbah du Toubkal in terms of genuine hospitality and charm. And those qualities are priceless.

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Our taxi deposits my friend Ellen and me at the entrance to a dusty alley. To reach Riad Malika, he tells us, we should turn left, then take a right, followed by another left. Pulling our oversized bags behind us, we turn left at a pile of mule dung, take a right at the leering adolescent boys, followed by another left at the overwhelming stench of cat piss.

And we’re at Riad Malika!

We knock. Pause. No answer. Knock. Pause. No answer.

This is NOT an auspicious start.

Ellen punches at the buzzer with her index finger. A little stressed after enduring 4,000 miles in itty-bitty seats, suffering through endless episodes of the The Big Bang Theory inflight entertainment, and enduring this 98 degree Marrakech weather neither of us has much patience, not that either of us are relaxed under the most ideal circumstances.

“We need to be nice,” I remind Ellen as much as myself.

The door opens.


We enter Riad Malika and all is right with the world.

Amil couldn’t be sweeter. He apologizes for taking so long to answer the door (he was tending to some plants on the upstairs deck) and ushers Ellen and I into the gorgeous courtyard, encouraging us to relax at a table with a cup of tea. The courtyard is everything Marrakech isn’t: calm, shaded, quiet.

Breakfasts are served on the balcony by an attentive staff who are happy to help with recommendations, directions or bookings.

Riad Malika Courtyard

Every wall, nook and corner of Riad Malika reflects the impeccable taste of its owner, a Frenchman (of course) who has lived here for 35 years.

Riad Malika Sitting Room

The muted lighting, artwork, and collection-worthy furnishings create a dreamlike surrounding.

Riad Malika Mirror

The scent and sight of the tropical plants, fruit trees and bright flowers add to the surreal effect.

Riad Malika Decor

A rooftop deck overlooks the medina. Jemaa El Fna, the main square, is an easy, 15-minute walk away. We’re happy with the location of Riad Malika: close to the chaos but not in the middle of it.

Riad Malika Plants

Most guests gather at the pool during the heat of the afternoon to compare restaurant recommendations and share rug-buying stories from their morning shopping expeditions. We all know that we’ve been ripped-off, we’re just trying to determine whether or not we succeeded in being ripped-off less than our fellow tourists.

Riad Malika Pool

You’d never know it’s 100 degrees outside Riad Malika when you’re relaxing by the pool. I would kill for that poster I’ve been lusting after all afternoon.

Riad Malika Pool Feet

The deck is a wonderful place to hang out as dusk descends.

Riad Malika Pool Deck

I can see the balcony to our room, the “Suite Royale” (which cost only 180 Euros per night during high season), from the pool.

Looking up at Riad Malika guestroom

Ellen and I just laugh when we see our Suite Royale (which we refer to as the Suite Royale from here on out). It’s enormous and decorated chock-a-block from floor to the 15-foot-ceiling with art deco furniture, bizarre art, Eames-era treasures and intricate North African detail. I’m a minimalist by nature, but at Riad Malika, Moor is More.

Riad Malika Room

Of course we have a fireplace. There’s a second one in the bathroom, which is larger than some hotel rooms I’ve stayed in.

Riad Malika Living Room

And our own grand piano.

Piano at Riad Malika

And retractable sky roof! The morning Call to Prayer drifts in through it, which bothers Ellen but I find it hauntingly soothing.

Riad Malika Retractable Ceiling

Ellen and I stop at the feted, famous La Mamounia for a $25 drink during our stay in Marrakech. It’s opulent. It’s immaculate. It’s impersonal. Yes, La M is fabulous, but it’s just so commercially, pretentiously, self-consciously so, like Gwenyth Paltrow. And a single room rate is three times the rate of our winsome Suite Royale. Even if money were no issue, I’d rather stay at the charming, magical Riad Malika any day.

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I don’t recall why I booked my flight from Istanbul into Keysari, as the Nevsehir airport is actually closer to the heart of Cappadocia. I head to the Budget car rental counter only to learn that there IS NO Budget car rental counter. Hmph. Asking around, I’m told to go outside, so I proceed to the Arrivals building where they bar me from entering. Hmph. Now what?

I eventually learn that the Budget car rental counter is actually a few spaces in the airport parking with a guy standing there. He provides me with a refresher on manual transmissions (I drive these things only every five years or so) and I jerk my out of the airport an out onto the streets of Keyseri, more than a little nervous about driving through this unfamiliar city in a vehicle I can barely operate.


Once past the city limits the drive is not so harrowing: the roads are fine and the drivers here are not maniacs (maniac drivers to be covered in my Sicily trip report). I arrive at the Urgup roundabout and the driving directions provided by my hotel, Serinn House, become open to interpretation. Misinterpreting them, I loop the city multiple times, eventually landing at Serinn House.

Many charming towns comprise the region of Cappadocia, including stylish Uchisar and charming Goreme, but I chose to stay in Urgup based upon my sister’s recommendation and the Lonely Planet description of it:

Ürgüp is elegant without even trying, like your favourite Turkish aunt who visits once a year. Better still, there’s not a lot to do, no obligatory sights to see, just a few restaurants, a fabulous hamam, an up-and-coming winery and, outside of town, valley views that taste like honey on a stick. Perhaps Turkey’s hippest rural retreat, Ürgüp is the connoisseurs’ base for exploring the geographical heart of Cappadocia.


Although I had narrowed my choice of city to Urgup, and knew I wanted to stay in a boutique cave hotel (half the point of visiting the World Heritage Site of Cappadocia is to live like a troglodyte for a few days), choosing among the Cappadocia Cornucopia of properties still wasn’t easy. Tripadvisor lists no fewer than 18 five-bubble rated hotels (most of them cave hotels) in the small city; my favorite hotel booking site, Unusual Hotels of the World, identifies two outstanding Urgup properties (Elkep Evi and Gamirasu Cave Hotel); and the hotel booking site I rely upon the most, i-escape, also promotes two Urgup cave hotels (Evinn Cave House and Serinn House). There’s such a thing as Too Much Choice.

After whole Sundays spent comparing notes, I eventually booked Serinn House because i-escape has not disappointed me yet, internet posters’ praised the owner’s hospitality, the rate was reasonable and I dug its Design Within Reach style decor.

Serinn House Bedroom

I’m happy with my choice of Serinn House. Urgup looks lovely, my room is charming, the wi-fi is strong, and Eren (the owner) is taking good care of me. But, the best part of Serinn House? The two cute resident dogs.

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